Colonel Sanders, Counterfeits, and Real Sour Cream

This morning, I read an article about Colonel Sanders. Apparently, he didn't like KFC's fried chicken.

Oh, he thought highly of his original secret recipe, but the corporation that bought his baby changed the recipe to speed production or save money or something.

He was furious.

Which is understandable. KFC wasn't serving KFC. Whatever reputation he was living on was being sold out from under him one weak fried chicken part at a time.

It occurred to me that I've never had a real piece of Kentucky Fried Chicken. Every bucket was just a counterfeit, a cheap facsimile of the author's intent.

That same notion probably occurred to the Colonel. After he lost control of KFC, he opened up a new restaurant in his wife's name - Claudia Sanders Dinner House in Shelbyville, Kentucky - where they supposedly follow the original recipe and endeavor to restore his reputation.

Maybe I'll make it there some day and try the real thing, but this Sanders story alone probably wouldn't have been enough to get me to write this post after such a long hiatus. No, that inspiration came along this evening, when I opened a new container of sour cream.

I've been under the weather, and my friend screenwriter Krista Suh dropped off some homemade southwestern chicken soup and a container of sour cream to dollop on top. The soup was fantastic, but I'm here to write about the sour cream.

I've had plenty of Breakstone's and Knudsen and Daisy and whatnot, and more than my share of French onion dip, but I'd apparently never had real sour cream before. I opened the container - OrganicValley Sour Cream, a brand I wasn't familiar with - only to discover its contents looking overly thick and slightly hardened along the top.

It looked less creamy than any sour cream I had ever seen before. It looked almost like a really soft feta, like it might crumble a bit. I thought it had gone bad.

The first thing I did was check the expiration date. Still good for three more weeks.

I took a taste.

It was sour cream, but the operative word was cream. Rich, intense cream. Much richer and much more intense than any sour cream I had ever had.

I read the label: milk, cream, Acidophilus and Bifidus Cultures. Pure sour cream. Real sour cream.

No carrageenan, no guar gum, no modified food starch. No fillers, no flavoring. Sour cream tastes pretty good even with all that extra crap in it, but this stuff was much better.

Now I'm not saying it was the best sour cream in the world, or anything like that. I haven't done enough research to sustain that kind of superlative. But it was remarkably good. And it was the best sour cream I've ever had. So here I am revisiting this blog.

What made the sour cream noteworthy? I'm guessing the lack of artificial ingredients played an important role, but I don't know if that's my main takeaway.

In the days ahead, I'll probably be looking out for more opportunities for gustatory improvement, and I'll probably be more inclined to pass over the imitations and knockoffs, even on foods that don't obviously seem to be worth the upgrade. And I guess I found a new brand of sour cream, which is always nice to share with the internet. But maybe the biggest takeaway is that for one magical moment, my expectations were shattered. And using a gloopy dollop of sour cream to shatter anything, well, that's a feat worth blogging about.

Should foie gras be outlawed?

Foie gras has never been a big part of my diet.  I’ve probably only eaten it a handful of times: at Nobu, at weddings, on the Naked Lunch sandwich (reviewed below), at a couple other fancy-ish restaurants, and most memorably at Earl’s Beer & Cheese, where it’s served on an eggo waffle with aged Cabot cheddar, coffee-cured bacon, and syrup (a ridiculously awesome combination well worth a trip to 97th & Park).

Foie gras is tasty, but if I never eat it again, I’ll live.  I don’t think I’ll even miss it.  Which might be lucky, because in a few months, California will be outlawing foie gras.

There is a bunch of controversy over the tasty lobes of liver.  Some people say that foie gras isn’t ethical.  If you’re so inclined, you can read about their arguments here.

I believe in and aspire to ethical eating.  I’m hardly perfect, but I’m actively trying to make more responsible choices.

I try to buy foods that aren’t produced in ways that destroy the environment, and aren’t encased in wasteful packaging, even if that means spending more money.

I check the Monterey Bay’s Seafood Watch List before ordering seafood.  I hope you will, too.  You can download the app here.

While I eat/enjoy meat, the majority of my meals are vegetarian because it’s better for the environment. (And because vegetables are awesome.)

That being said, I’m not interested in giving up something tasty unless I feel I have to.

If it is truly unethical to eat foie – more so than eating any other animal product – then I’m happy to let it go.  But even though the California legislature made up its mind, I’m still not convinced.  This article explains why.

I’m wondering what you all think.  Feel free to leave comments.  Or invitations to foie gras speakeasies.

a foie gras sandwich (with duck prosciutto, tomato, butter lettuce, and black truffle salt)

Naked Lunch isn’t messing around. A big hunk of foie gras. Duck prosciutto. (I’m not sure what duck prosciutto is exactly, but it’s salty and ducky and good.) This sandwich is a portrait of caligulan excess. You take a bite and it’s almost too much. But then the tomatoes (that actually taste like tomatoes!) cut through and you’re ready for more. Truthfully, half of this sandwich is probably enough. Split it with a friend and try something else from Naked Lunch’s rotating menu. Or go full out decadent and eat two. But if you want to try it, get moving. California is outlawing foie gras on July 1.


Naked Lunch
504 Broadway
San Francisco, CA 94133
(415) 577-4951
Tuesday to Saturday 11.30am - 2.00pm

vegan avocado tacos

 Vegan food at non-vegan restaurants is often disappointing – an afterthought pretending to satisfy the requirements of a picky eater.  But Border Grill’s vegan avocado tacos are so good, even a non-vegan (like me) would be pretty thrilled to eat them.   

The avocado comes encrusted in red quinoa, amaranth, and black sesame.  If you’re like me (and haven’t read this review), you’ll take a bite, stop in pleasure and surprise, and think, “Wow, I didn’t realize they could put a crust on avocado.” 

And the great thing is the next bite, the bite that knows what to expect, is even better.

pupusas

Little San Salvador Restaurant makes my favorite pupupas in Los Angeles.

pupusa de queso con loroco

(For the uninitiated, pupusas are sort of a stuffed masa flatbread - kind of like a quesadilla, but thicker, and Salvadoran.)

The great thing about Little San Salvador is that they cook their pupusas longer than most other places. The cheese oozes out and forms crispy burnt tasty bits, which provide awesome texture and flavor. It's not completely traditional, but it is really tasty.

Another great thing: their pupusas are much bigger than average. One is probably enough for a light meal, but they are cheap, so I typically overorder.

shrimp pupusa

curtido

Pupusas are traditionally served with curtido (a lightly pickled cabbage coleslaw made with vinegar, chiles, onions and carrots) and salsa. Little San Salvador's curtido is rustically chopped, flavorful and crunchy. The accompanying salsa is nothing special, but it does its job.

While you're there, you should also get an order of the fried plantains. They are everything a fried plantain should be: soft yet firm, and perfectly caramelized. I don't know if it would be possible to make a better fried plantain.

fried plantains

ceviche

Also consider ordering the ceviche.

Salvadoran ceviche is simple, but tasty. The dominant flavors are citrus and fish, without the spice you might find in a Mexican or Peruvian ceviche. If you haven't had it, it's definitely worth trying.

So far, I've ordered Little San Salvador's ceviche three times. The fish was tender and fresh, and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it, except for a little inconsistency from their kitchen. Twice the ceviche was great. Once it was only ok. (I think they used garlic salt this time instead of regular salt. It wasn't bad, but the flavors didn't work as well.) Still, I will order the ceviche again.

A few last words on Little San Salvador to end this post:

The service is friendly, the prices are very reasonable (you can easily have a good meal for less than $10 per person - not including drinks), and they are open late.

Little San Salvador Restaurant
901 N. Western Ave. Los Angeles, CA 90029
(323) 466-1170

Monday - Thursday: 9:00 am to 11:30 pm
Friday - Sunday: 9:00 am to 1:30 am

Mas' Islamic Chinese Restaurant

One of my favorite restaurants in LA isn't actually in LA.  It's in Anaheim, which, despite what the Angels would have you believe, is not Los Angeles.  Traveling from LA to Anaheim can be a painful, traffic ridden nightmare, but Mas' Islamic Chinese Restaurant is worth the drive.

Before I go any further with this post, I should note that Mas' isn't a Xinjiang restaurant.  (Xinjiang is a region in China inhabited by Uyghurs, who are traditionally Muslim, and who have a fantastic cuisine that I'll save for a future post.)

The main differences between Mas' and non-Islamic Chinese restaurants are:
1. The food is halal.
2. There is no pork on the menu.  (see 1.)
3. The menu has a section for lamb.
4. You can order bread instead of rice.

In many ways, Mas' is just a very good version of a standard American Chinese restaurant, with offerings that should be familiar to anyone who has ever had Chinese food.  But it's the differences that make it worth the drive.

You'll understand what I mean if you go there and order:

Knife Cut (Dough Sliced) noodles - it's like lo mein, but about a billion times better, with thick noodles that are truly satisfying to bite into.  I dream about these noodles.

Stir-fry Leek with Five Spiced Beef - if you're not Chinese, your waiter probably won't let you order this dish.  Not at first, anyway.  He'll try to talk you into ordering Orange Chicken, or some other unchallenging dish that Americans are supposed to prefer.  Insist on the five spiced beef.  If you're not familiar with the Chinese five spice mixture, the flavors might be different from anything else you've ever tasted, and sort of strong, but most people I've gone to Mas' with have loved this dish, and no matter how much we've overordered, there haven't been five spiced beef leftovers.

Moo Shu Lamb - lamb makes for excellent moo shu, and the the portion size is pretty awesome: eight burrito sized pancakes, plus an extra plate of leftover moo shu.

Sesame Bread with Green Onion - one of the best things about Islamic Chinese food is that you can eat your food with bread instead of rice.  Not that there's anything wrong with rice, but Mas' sesame bread is pretty awesome- it's a flat bread, encrusted in sesame seeds and studded with green onions.  The bread comes in two styles: big and thin.  One order of either is easily enough for six people - possibly eight.  I always order both breads and I always end up with far too much.  Unless you're looking for leftovers, you may as well just order one.  Get the thin.
(A note to the onion phobic: the bread can also be ordered without green onion.)

Also think about ordering:
Lamb with Pickled Cabbage - the waiter will probably try to talk you out of ordering this one, too, but it's very good, and has a nice acidity that cuts through some of the heavier flavors.

And I hear the Beef Noodle Soup is very good, but I haven't tried it yet.


I would probably avoid ordering anything that you can find at any other Chinese restaurant.  Mas' versions are fine, but nothing special.  For example, the honey walnut shrimp are fine (and people on yelp rave about them), but I've had better closer.  If you're going to drive that far (I'm assuming that most of my readership lives outside the Anaheim environs), the food had better be special.

Also worth noting before you make the trek: while I haven't had any problems, I've heard that if you show up in shorts and a tank top (or other revealing clothes), that you might get sent away.  It is a halal restaurant after all.

The portions are fairly large, and the prices are very reasonable.  Bring a group (6 - 8 people would be ideal - try to make reservations first, because it gets busy), and expect to pay less than $20 per person (including tip) for more food than you could possibly eat.

And if anyone wants to carpool, let me know.

601 E. Orangethorpe Ave.  Anaheim, CA 92801
714-446-9553

carrot sticks

In yesterday's NY Times, there was an article entitled Schools Dangle Carrot Snacks, but It’s a Tough Sale.

According to the article, some schools are trying to provide healthier vending machine options - like carrot sticks - but the kids aren't interested.  Maybe kids just don't like carrots all that much.  But maybe there's another explanation.  Maybe the carrots they're selling in these vending machines just aren't delicious.

A few months ago, there was an interview on NPR with Dan Barber, chef/owner of the Blue Hill restaurants.  Among other things, he spoke about carrots, and the science of growing delicious carrots.  It turns out that carrots have sugar in them, and the sugar makes them taste delicious.  This sugar is measured with a Brix test.  A really tasty carrot might have a Brix score of 12.

He tested carrots grown at the Stone Barns Center farm, and they scored a 13.8 - off the charts deliciously good.

He also tested commercially available carrots that you or I could buy in a store.  These carrots turned out to have a Brix score of 0.  Zero.  Zero is bad.  On a scale of zero to delicious, zero is not delicious.

The NY Times article didn't report the Brix scores of the vending machine carrots, but industrial farming regularly prizes color and shape over flavor, so it wouldn't be surprising if the vending machine carrots scored poorly on a Brix test.

Maybe the problem isn't that kids don't like carrots.  Maybe the problem is that schools are trying to get kids to spend their money on food that doesn't taste good.  Obviously this is just speculation, but it's speculation based upon years of buying disappointing produce at grocery stores.

I'd be curious to see if the NY Times would do a follow up to test the quality of the vending machine carrots.  In fact, I'm going to email the reporter right now.